Snaky Flaky: Busting Exfoliation Myths

In the world of skincare, where serums, tonics, and cleansers reign supreme, there lurks a persistent myth.

We’re told by brands, blogs, and beauty experts alike that our skin needs to be buffed, polished, and peeled to reveal a fresher, younger version of ourselves. But here’s the truth: our skin does not exfoliate; it desquamates. 

Our skin sheds naturally, and it does so without our interference. This subtle but crucial distinction might just be the key to saving your skin from the all-too-common dangers of over-exfoliation. But before we get into desquamation and how to help your skin when it’s not looking its best, let’s take a look at the truth behind the exfoliation fallacy. 

The History of Exfoliation: Marketing or Myth?

The concept of exfoliation has a storied history; one that’s often romanticised as an ancient practice dating back to Cleopatra’s milk baths or the use of abrasive materials by the Greeks. But in truth, the term ‘exfoliation’ as we know it today has less to do with historical skincare rituals and more to do with modern marketing.

Some speculate that the term gained popularity in the mid-20th century when cosmetic giants, eager to sell a new wave of beauty products, needed a novel concept to promote. Estee Lauder, a name synonymous with skincare innovation, is often credited with popularising the idea of exfoliation in the 1960s. The notion that we could, and should, scrub away our imperfections became a powerful selling point. This, of course, was a brilliant marketing strategy, playing into the fears of ageing and imperfection.

Yet, despite the alluring promise of youthful, radiant skin, the reality is that exfoliation, as it’s widely understood, is more marketing ploy than necessity. The skin’s natural process of shedding – desquamation – doesn’t require our constant intervention. In fact, the skin is a highly sophisticated organ that renews itself with remarkable efficiency, and when we forcefully intervene, we can disrupt this natural process to our detriment.

Desquamation: The Skin’s Natural Renewal Process

Desquamation is the skin’s way of renewing itself: shedding mature, dead cells to make way for fresh, vibrant ones. This process happens in the outmost layer of the skin (the epidermis). Starting life in the deepest level of the epidermis (the basal layer), half of the new skin cells our bodies create stay behind, while the other half migrate to the skin’s surface. By the time these cells reach the surface (after 14-28 days) they are no longer living tissue; however, they do still form a protective barrier that shields our skin from environmental harm.

In our quest for smooth, glowing skin, we often turn to manual ‘exfoliation’. What many people fail to realise is that excessive exfoliation can do more harm than good. By aggressively removing this protective barrier, we compromise the skin’s natural defences, leading to irritation, inflammation, and the dreaded “snaky flaky” appearance – a condition where the skin becomes dry, scaly, and excessively flaky.

When we exfoliate too frequently or with overly harsh products, we can damage the bonds between mature, shedding cells and the healthy, living cells beneath. This disruption not only impairs the skin barrier but also triggers a cascade of issues, including increased sensitivity, redness, and even breakouts. So the very products we believe are helping us to achieve perfection might be the culprits behind our compromised skin health.

When Our Skin Does Need a Helping Hand

While it’s true that the skin is more than capable of renewing itself, there are times when it might need a little help. Certain medications, living in particularly harsh climates, or failing to keep up with a good skincare routine can all slow down the natural process of desquamation, leading to a buildup of mature skin cells. In these cases, it can be beneficial to remove excess cells manually to prevent clogged pores or dullness.

However, this must be approached with caution. It’s not about scrubbing away at your skin with harsh, physical exfoliating scrubs, but rather supporting its natural processes. Gentle products like enzyme-based exfoliants or low-strength acids (used sparingly) can help without disrupting the skin’s balance. My top recommendations here include the dermaviduals® Treatment Gel (soothes irritation on blemish-prone skin), the dermaviduals’ Liposome Concentrate Plus (ideal for acne and rosacea-prone skin), or the Complexion Skin Liposome (to help even skin tone).

But remember, the key is moderation, and tailoring skincare to your skin’s actual needs – rather than simply using what you think you should, based on the latest influencer craze.

Face Mapping: Tailoring Your Skincare to Your Skin’s Needs

Your skin is incredibly unique, which is why it’s so important to tailor your skincare. Thankfully, face mapping is starting to gain traction amongst those who are switched on about the differing needs of their beautifully unique skin. 

One of the most overlooked aspects of skincare is recognising that not all areas of your face, neck, decollete or body have the same needs. The skin is a complex organ, with varying characteristics depending on the area. The cheeks may be drier, the forehead oilier, and the chin prone to breakouts. This is where the practice of face mapping becomes invaluable.

Rather than applying the same product across your entire face, consider tailoring your skincare routine to the specific needs of different areas. A hydrating serum might be perfect for your cheeks but too heavy for your T-zone. Similarly, a mild exfoliant might be necessary around the nose but too harsh for the delicate skin around your eyes.

Understanding and appreciating the uniqueness of your skin can help you to avoid the pitfalls of over-exfoliation and over-treatment. Skincare should be about enhancing your natural beauty, not about conforming to one-size-fits-all solutions.

Top Tips for Face Mapping

1. Identify Key Zones: Divide your face into different zones, such as the forehead, nose, cheeks, chin, and around the eyes. Each area may have specific needs (e.g., oilier T-zone, drier cheeks).
2. SPF Application: Apply sunscreen generously to areas that protrude, like the nose, forehead, and chin, as they are more exposed to UV rays and prone to sun damage. You should reapply SPF to these areas before leaving the house, and reapply frequently when exposed to the sun.
3. Caring for the Nose: While the nose is part of the oil-prone T-zone, be cautious with products that dry out the skin. The skin on the nose is thin and can become easily irritated. Opt for gentle exfoliants and hydrating products to balance oil without over-drying.
4. Moisturise Appropriately: Use lighter, oil-free moisturisers on oily areas like the T-zone and richer creams on drier areas like the cheeks. 
5. Targeted Treatments: Apply acne treatments or mattifying products specifically to oily zones, while using hydrating serums or creams on drier parts of the face.

If you’re serious about your skincare and want to learn how to face map like a pro, I can teach you everything you need to know to get you started! Book a consultation to uncover the what, where, when, and how of face mapping.

Question the Myths, Embrace the Facts

The bottom line? It’s crucial to question the skincare myths that are so often perpetuated by marketing and social media. Exfoliation, as it’s popularly understood, isn’t the magic solution it’s made out to be. Our skin is a marvel of biology, capable of taking care of itself in ways we often underestimate. When we mess around with our skin, we risk making it confused and more reliant on our interference. By understanding and respecting the natural process of desquamation, we can maintain healthier, more resilient skin.

So, the next time you’re tempted to reach for that exfoliating scrub or acid peel, or you’re told to hand over your hard-earned cash by a skincare professional, take a moment to consider whether your skin really needs it. Question, question, question. 

After all, we peel fruit, not skin.