How to manage hyperpigmentation (without making it worse)
Hyperpigmentation is nothing to hide from: it’s a natural (and necessary) process that helps to keep us safe when we spend a little too much time in the sun. But with the pressure of perfection coming in strong from much of the beauty and skincare industry, I know how hard acceptance can be.
While I steer well clear of promises for perfect skin (1: there’s no such thing; 2: the pursuit of perfection is a thankless task), I’m all for boosting people’s confidence by helping them to achieve skin they’re comfortable in. So, if you’re unhappy with hyperpigmentation, there are things you can do to help manage it.
Let’s take a look at the fascinating history of hyperpigmentation through the ages, explore how we safely manage hyperpigmentation in modern times, and identify what we should avoid like the plague.
The history of hyperpigmentation
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Ancient Egypt: Plant-based remedies were used widely. Cleopatra reportedly used milk baths, leveraging lactic acid’s natural exfoliating properties.
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Greece and Rome: Olive oil, crushed pearls, honey and vinegar were used for their nourishing and lightening effects.
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Middle Ages: Alchemists experimented with metals, while herbalists used lemon juice and almond oil for natural brightening.
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Renaissance: Indigenous practices introduced ingredients like cocoa butter and aloe vera for healing and tone improvement.
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19th century: The cosmetic industry began combining traditional ingredients with newly synthesised compounds such as hydroquinone.
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20th century: Retinoids and chemical peels transformed treatment approaches, offering more targeted results.
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Today: A blend of nature and science. Ingredients like turmeric and vitamin C sit alongside advanced technologies like LED treatments.
The challenge of hyperpigmentation
Despite all of these advances, hyperpigmentation is still not easy to treat. And here’s why:
1. Varied causes:
Different triggers require different approaches, from sun exposure to hormones and inflammation.
2. Depth of pigment:
Superficial pigment is easier to treat than deeper dermal pigmentation.
3. Skin differences:
Age, skin health and biology all influence outcomes.
4. Persistent triggers:
Without consistent protection, pigmentation can return.
Treating hyperpigmentation takes time, patience, and a willingness to find what works for you.
Is blue light good for hyperpigmentation?
While blue light has certain healing properties, it can stimulate pigment if used incorrectly. Like sunlight, it must be used with care.
My in-clinic recommendation: Dermalux Tri-Wave MD LED Phototherapy treatment
My at-home recommendation: faceLITE LED Mask
If you’re feeling spenny: Dermalux Flex MD
Are actives good for treating hyperpigmentation?
The skincare industry embraces acids, but they must be approached with care.
Acids: why stronger isn’t always better
Our skin is a multi-sensory organ that must be treated with respect. Overuse of strong actives can damage the barrier and leave skin vulnerable.
According to draft regulation, retinol strengths are being restricted, reinforcing the importance of careful, considered use.
How to manage hyperpigmentation
Daily SPF is essential, alongside protective habits like hats and sunglasses.
Treatment often combines topical actives with professional therapies.
And of course, we must look within:
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Carotenoid-rich foods: Support a natural glow.
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Antioxidants: Protect against damage.
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Omega-3: Support skin health.
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Hydration: Improves radiance.
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Vitamins C & E: Brighten and protect.
My top picks for treating hyperpigmentation
Bespoke treatments built around your skin’s needs.
Targeted, individualised care.
Precision light therapy for your skin.
Carefully curated for renewal.
The future of skin protection
Innovations like UV-protective clothing are emerging, blending science and design.
But one truth remains:
Pigmentation is natural. It cannot be eradicated entirely, nor should it be.
We are not here to fight the skin, but to understand it, support it, and live alongside it.
Ingrid x
